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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.